The job of the suspension system is to maximize grip from tires while maintaining acceptable ride quality for passengers. Our philosophy revolves around making the best of what the tire has available, regardless of the individual tire brand, quality, or size. Therefore, the aim of the suspension is to keep as much of the tire on the road as possible when turning, braking, and even driving in a straight line.   One of the fundamental rules with tire temperatures when taken with a pyrometer is that it is an approximation of how the tire is behaving based on the varying inputs it is has been given at that point in time. It must be also said you will be forever chasing the perfect setup as were not dealing with constants here like temperature and frictional change, but like a blood pressure check is to the human body, analysing the tire temperatures and pressures is to the vehicle in identifying that something is not quite right.   The first key parameter to ascertain is to get your tire pressures pretty close to the optimum running pressure(HOT), this means starting off with a lower tire pressure and bleeding it back when it’s hot if too high or adding pressure if too low. Once the tires have cooled down this will be your optimum starting pressure on cold tires next time. Different brands will all have their own operating temperature (HOT) range where they will be at their most effective so seeking this information from your tire manufacturer is critical to getting the most out of the tire to grip. From here on in it’s a game of fine tuning, but don’t be mistaken one that you will never win, there is no perfect setup right? this is why they call it a “Black Art”?. So with that being said multiple parameters will affect the tire temperatures but we will for simplicities sake review the effects of static alignment setup and focus directly on the Camber angle. Provided you have the vehicle well balanced, it feels balanced through turns, rides the bumps well and feels settled from the varying inputs you throw at it we can look at the relationship of how the static camber effects the tire temperatures. The point to note here is that the tire temps need to be taken as quickly as they can be as you exit the track as every second passes heat soak and dissipation across the tire face distorts your results so the key is have an assistant to help in doing so. Using a pyrometer, press the probe into the tire face and take the temperatures across 3 points of the tire face, the inner, the centre & the outer and record the results, doesn’t go astray to get the track temperature as well so you can start to build yourself a database of what is going on under varying conditions. They do say knowledge is power provided you know what to do with it. Another good thing to remember is target the tires that you think are of most importance first, for instance the track maybe predominately a left hand circuit orientation which is heavy on the front right tire so you would want to target this tire first and work your way around the vehicle as the un-distorted information from the tire heat soak is of more benefit to you than the left side, it’s not to say that isn’t important just that the changes made on the left side don’t have as big a benefit to your overall setup as the right.   So with results in hand, and ensuring our tire is in the optimum pressure operating range or close to it (This is the key here) we make the necessary changes required to the static camber angles on the wheel aligner to get that tire running at the optimum temperature across the face.   Too hot on the inside face of the tire and too much negative camber, too much heat on the outside face and too little negative camber. Temperature even across the full face or close to it and we have a good static base camber angle that is working the tire evenly Simple as that, not quite, as mentioned before there is a lot that effects how the tires distribute their heat across the face of the tire and the suspension is just the tuning tool on how we present the abuse expected of them. Provided were happy with the overall feel of the car tuning the camber allows you to take advantage of what the tire potentially is capable of.  

When we talk about how many springs our vehicle has we generally think of the answer being four. All too often what we refer to as the 5th & 6th springs are overlooked, this being the sway bars or also known as torsion bars or anti roll bars. Primarily the purpose of these springs is exactly that, to provide resistance to movement by way of torsional stiffness. Although they provide a similar purpose as the suspension coil springs the anti-roll bars achieve this in a slightly different manner. Although the operation of these 5th & 6th springs is misunderstood on a regular basis their operation is really very simple. Although there are various differing design styles from torsion bars mounted in beam axles, to beam axles themselves, in this article we will take a look at the most conventional system. Looking at the anti-roll bar itself alone, it is primarily a very simple unit and effectively makes up a “U” shape one way or the other albeit with additional bends to form the function of clearance around various components. There are intricacies within the anti-roll bar that can form the anti-roll bar to react differently but for the sake of not complicating the explanation we will just look at the bar in its most simplistic form.   To this “U” shaped bar we then have to provide some form of mounting to not only support the anti-roll bar to the chassis of the vehicle but also allow some form of rotation as the suspension transverses upward and downward. The outer points of the “U” shaped bar is then mounted to each suspension unit whether it be onto the suspension arm or shock absorber/damper housings, etc. So now if we visualise the anti-roll bars operation for a minute we can now see if we rotate both of the suspension arms upward or downward equally where the outer mounting points are the anti-roll bar would essential happily rotate in these chassis pivot mounts freely without providing any form of resistance to the movement, the same as rotating a steel rod back and forth in two bearing housings. Now if we fix one of the outer “U” mounting points where the link mounts to the suspension arm or shock absorber/damper housing and try to rotate the other mounting point we are met with resistance, the anti-roll bar arm is not going to want to move upward or downward easily at all due to the torsional stiffness within the steel and this is how we get our 5th & 6th springs. Essentially we apply an effort to one side and we get an opposing effort returned, which is just like our suspension coil springs, we compress and the energy built up in the spring resists and wants to release that energy and return to its former position.   So now we have our 5th & 6th springs, like suspension coil springs we can increase or decrease the torsional stiffness within the anti-roll bars to manipulate the roll stiffness behaviour of the vehicle during cornering, and as we have discovered the anti-roll bar provides absolutely zero torsional stiffness  when the chassis or suspension moves up and downward equally. Now we have a basic understanding of the fundamental on how the anti-roll bar is tasked to operate, there is essentially three ways to increase or decrease the torsional stiffness of this component, the first being what the material composition the anti-roll bar is made from. This is easy to relate to by thinking about the structure of a piece of plastic and steel rod, for obvious reasons the steel rod will be stronger and have a higher degree of resistance to yield and breakage than the plastic rod due to its chemical composition and likewise the processing and chemical composition of steel can determine the materials inherent strength and durability. The second factor which is quite obvious is the diameter. If we think about the diameter of a paper clip and a quarter inch piece of steel rod bent into a “U” shape and rotate each end it is clearly obvious the quarter inch steel rod provides much more resistance to bending or movement than the paper clip would giving us our second factor of torsional stiffness. The third being leverage, this ones really simple, imagine standing on the end of a long diving board and look at how much the board flexes and sinks with your weight. Shorten the length of the diving board and it doesn’t flex as much with the same weight applied, same principal applies to the anti-roll bar, the shorter the lever arm the more effort required to rotate or deflect the arm and thus an increase in roll stiffness occurs... So armed with this knowledge if we want to resist the effects of body roll in the front or rear  we can effectively increase the roll  stiffness by increasing the torsional stiffness of the anti-roll bar and likewise decreasing it to  reduce the effects. By adding adjustment holes to the anti-roll bar this effectively allows us to tune the amount of roll stiffness to some degree by changing the lever arm length, (much like the diving board albeit on a smaller scale)  and thus altering the torsional stiffness of the anti-roll bar.  It is especially important to have this degree of adjustment due to varying degrees of handling set up that will be required and such items like the frictional resistance of the tires can play a huge part in altering the roll stiffness balance. So we now know if we want to increase the cornering stiffness on the rear we can then add a larger rear anti-roll bar and the same applies with the front. So is there a point where you can increase the roll resistance too much? Absolutely, it’s all about working the tire to its maximum potential during cornering but maintaining suspension compliance at the same time, we are trying to allow the tire to generate the most amount of lateral acceleration it can before it overcomes its grip coefficient of the tire. Apply to much roll stiffness and the tire is overcome quickly before the tire has a chance to build that lateral acceleration through grip, so it’s all about finding that ‘fine-tuned’ balance specific to every applications setup.  How do these 5th & 6th springs relate with Whiteline Lowering Springs? The anti-roll bars are designed to be an ultimate effective entry level suspension upgrade handling package tuned to suit each and every vehicle application as required. The anti-roll bars are engineered around the specific spring rates provided and ride heights developed for the Whiteline Spring kits which complement the handling balance of the vehicle nicely. Search the Whiteline range of sway bar kits, lowering springs and GS1 handling kits now.    

What can I say about your Grip Series suspension package for the ND MX-5? The MX-5 is fantastic straight out of the box. By adding you sway bar and spring package I have taken the MX-5 to the next level. It’s brilliant. It has enhanced the chassis and experience of driving the car enormously.    The car now feels much eager to turn in and it is so much more composed and stable. Body roll has been completely banished. No more roll oversteer which really kept you on your toes when you were pushing hard. The car used to lean really heavily on the outside front tyre when turning in, then lean heavily on the outside rear tyre when exiting a corner. All this caused the car to be slightly unsettled due to the large weight shift because of the soft suspension. This no longer occurs as the sway bars stop any such roll. So, you feel the car working under you and giving you utter confidence on the limit. While with the standard set up you always had to second guess what the car was doing. Thanks to this confidence you can push the car harder and really feel as one with the car, the Jinba Ittai, that Mazda talk about all the time when referring to the MX-5. The ride is still supple. It hasn’t deteriorated at all. It fact apart from the cars height you wouldn’t know that it has firmer springs.   I took the car to Phillip Island for a track day last Sunday. My previous best time there on the standard set up with Yokohama AD08R road tyres was 1.58.8. This weekend I came away with a 1.55.6 on the same tyres. I think that says a lot. I was consistently quicker on every lap. The lads have said I got Whiteline fever. The car was simply better in every area. Stable under brakes, no more pitching forward and loosing rear end grip as the front end is digging into the track. Amazing turn in and the ability to put the power down earlier was very handy and put to good use. I was worried that the spring rate may be a bit too soft for the track, but I dare say I have been proven wrong. Be interesting to see how the springs handle the extra grip that R Specs will provide. It simply is a much better track car.   Only negatives, actually they’re not negatives just suggestions. The spring height is fine for me, but maybe you should offer them as a ‘fast road’ spring, and come out with another ‘touring’ spring that only lowers the car by 10-15mm. This may suit the more conservative MX-5 owner. Mine dropped by about 30mm. I found that the gold coloured clips to stop the front sway bar from moving couldn’t be located as per the instructions as they hit the body work. I had to leave a small gap and that has caused the front sway bar to move slightly causing it to ‘knock’ slightly and just touch one of the brake lines. Now this only occurred after track use so it was under a lot of stress. 99% of people will never experience this. Plus it might simply be that I didn’t tighten those clips enough as I’m loathe to over tighten things. I’ve tightened them up and I’ll keep an eye on them.   All in all it’s a fantastic set up that you offer. i could not be happier with it. Whether on the road or on the track it has transformed the car for the better. This is the way it should have come from the factory.   Thanks WHITELINE Randy Stagno Navarra Club Captain – Motor SportMazda MX-5 Club of Victoria & Tasmania

Whiteline recently acquired the newest 'Hot Hatch' to hit the market with the record breaking FWD Honda Civic Type R. Here are the initial thoughts from David Chenery - Chief of Whiteline R&D: "After coming off the back of development on the Subaru Impreza STi and Ford Focus RS, I was really keen to get my hands on the new Honda Civic type R, Front wheel drive. With all the hype surrounding the vehicles record time around the Nordschleife – Nurburgring, we had expected big things from this 2.0 Litre turbo-charged weapon." "After receiving the vehicle approximately 4 weeks after ordering it the day finally arrived, 100Kms on the odometer, time to take it for a run with the vehicle in totally standard trim straight off the factory floor. Straight out the box the car felt nimble; pushing ever slightly harder on each turn the car was predictable, however we did notice the more we started to push naturally the more we noticed the body roll in the front and how the vehicle started to fall over on the loaded damper."

Track days can be both exhilarating and nerve-wracking, or for some even a very stressful experience. Typically, there is a fair amount of preparation that needs to be done before hand to ensure there are no catastrophe’s on the day of the event. Upon arrival at the track (around 7am) drivers would normally unload their tools, race tyres, trolley jacks, chassis stands, fuel cans, chair’s (sometimes back seats) and any other loose items in the vehicle. Registration and scrutineering are the first formalities of the morning before a mandatory drivers briefing around 8am. Drivers and crew then start preparing the vehicles for their first session or for the familiarisation laps which is open to all. If you make it through all of that you are just about ready to get the adrenalin pumping as you push your car to the limits. Below are eight tips from Whiteline to help ensure you are well prepared to get the most out of your day at the track:   1. Fire Extinguisher  - Ensure the fire extinguisher is within its service date, is securely fastened and can be easily removed in the case of an emergency. Removing the safety pin prior to the day can save valuable seconds if required just remember to replace it after each event.  2. In the engine bay - Check the condition of the engine oil fluid well prior to commencing a track day and again on the morning before starting the car. Ensure your radiator is full but make sure the radiator overflow is not overfull. Make sure the battery is securely fixed with the clamp and terminals are tightly fastened and clean of corrosion. Check under the car for any leaks.  3. Tyre setup - Tyres all have a desired workable operating pressure that optimises their efficiency, what you’re looking at here is finding that starting cold pressure, no hard and fast rule here this all comes down to experience, location, tracks, setup, etc. and practice, generally as rule of thumb you want the tyre to be somewhere in the 30-34Psi range HOT and yes there are variables that will account for the change  4. Wheel nuts - Preferably using a tension wrench or wheel brace ensure the wheel nuts are tight BEFORE you go onto the circuit, never trust the electric impact guns that they will be right. Never hurts to go around twice as all too often we can get easily distracted.  5. Chassis stands – Safety is everything, the last thing you want to have happen is somebody to get hurt because your hydraulic jack seal catastrophically failed. Place stands under the chassis rails or sub frame and ensure the vehicle weight is taken by the stands and not the jack!  6. Recording key data –  have somebody assist you to record tyre pressure and temperatures after your session. This will help determine how your setup is, the quicker you can get the tyre face temperatures the better as the heat will tend to soak through the tyre fairly quickly. Ideally you’re looking for even heat distribution across the face of the tyre with the tyre pressure in its optimised window of efficiency.   7. Fuel - Make sure your vehicle is full of fuel prior to starting a track day or alternatively if you’re testing with specific fuel quantities, bring surplus fuel with you. Most track days you will get away with a tank of fuel and this is a great way to feel the difference in handling characteristics as the fuel load burns off during the day. 8. Respect – We’re all out there for the same reason, because we love what we do. So remember above all else to respect others on the circuit and drive safely!

With the clock ticking down to the 2018 motorsport and show car season WHITELINE is pumped to launch it's most comprehensive chassis and suspension components website www.whitelineperformance.com   The site reflects the strong identity WHITELINE has fostered for over 20 years and finally matches the stylised brandmark that many enthusiasts and tuners the world over trust for their vehicles. Featuring the very latest WHITELINE products complemented by detailed information and imagery, www.whitelineperformance.com is the source for chassis products and tuning information! IT'S TIME! #activatemoregrip   WHITELINEs boasts a worldwide reputation as a leading manufacturer of replacement, enhancement and performance suspension components that deliver significant gains in vehicle balance, steering precision, grip levels and outright driving performance. Consisting of adjustable sway bars (also known as Stabilizer Bars or Anti Roll Bars), chassis bracing, alignment products and chassis control bushing kits, WHITELINE products provide automotive workshops, tuners, enthusiasts and racers with innovative solutions to suspension and handling problems while delivering proven performance & problem solving outcomes for many of the worlds vehicle platforms.           WHITELINE products are developed up by a qualified and willing engineering group of dedicated enthusiasts who are trained in the company's products and philosophy. Using a range of sophisticated testing and data logging tools, we rely on comprehensive testing to maximise the product benefits and ensure that they work as a complete package tuned to give you the best handling outcome. WHITELINE has the products and practical experience to maximise the potential of your vehicle whether it be a daily driver, street performance or motorsport vehicle and guarantees a quality, tested and tuned outcome using WHITELINE products.

Caster is the backward or forward tilt of the steering axis. Vehicle manufacturers are aware of the advantages of caster and as each new model is released the amount of caster specified increases. Why, because the disadvantages of high levels of castor are being overcome. Rack and pinion steering means less play, lower Ackerman levels, smaller scrub radius (zero is now very common), better and lower profile radial tyres means less sidewall deflection and higher tolerance to greater slip angles. But the greatest obstacle, that of heavy steering effort, has all but disappeared with the universal acceptance of power steering. You can never have too much caster!! • Maximize tire contact patch during roll.• Improve turn in response.• Increase directional stability.• Maximize tire contact patch during braking and acceleration.• Improved steering feel and self center.• Increased dynamic negative camber (on turn).   This is why WHITELINE develops a wide range of products to increase caster.High levels of positive caster equate to more dynamic negative camber as you turn the wheel for improved grip levels when you need it the most. Improving high speed cornering ability. WHITELINE continues to put heavy emphasis on additional positive caster when designing new suspension packages to improve suspension attitude and superior traction.  

Whiteline recently acquired the newest 'Hot Hatch' to hit the market with the record breaking FWD Honda Civic Type R. Here's the initial thoughts from Whiteline R+D team. "After coming off the back of development on the Subaru Impreza STi, and Ford Focus RS, I was really keen to get my hands on the new Honda Civic type R, Front wheel drive. With all the hype surrounding the vehicles record time around the Nordschleife – Nurburgring, we had expected big things from this 2.0 Litre turbo Charged weapon. After receiving the vehicle approximately 4 weeks after ordering it the day finally arrived, 100Kms on the odometer, time to take it for a run with the vehicle in totally standard trim straight off the factory floor. Straight out the box the car felt nimble; pushing ever slightly harder on each turn the car was predictable, however we did notice the more we started to push naturally the more we noticed the body roll in the front and how the vehicle started to fall over on the loaded damper. The vehicle was smooth, flowing and transitioned well on smooth roads however at the limit on the rougher, undulating surfaces the dampers would peak out at full bump compression and fire back a little hard for my liking on rebound unsettling the car and pushing a bit of understeer. We were certainly impressed by the turn in of the car and knew without doing any research on alignment specifications that this vehicle had a significant amount of caster built into it due to the camber gain we were getting on turn in through front end corner grip. We did notice a few times on throttle lift off at the limit or pitching the vehicle under brakes the rear of the vehicle would want to rotate the rear end around. This felt a little odd considering the vehicle would push understeer and then snap into oversteer. On the wheel aligner she went. Straight away, there is the problem, -1.1mm toe out on the rear; this makes perfect sense to why the car wants to rotate on lift off on left hand turns. Wheel is tracking away from the corner and as such attempting to rotate the vehicle   So off we tweak the rear end setup and throw a little ‘toe-in’ to keep the rear more settled on throttle lift off. Were not too sure how we ended up with these toe out settings from the dealer in the rear end being out however we had pushed them to get the car to us ‘quick’ for development and indicated we were going to pull the vehicle to pieces anyway so it wasn’t really of great concern to us with our own wheel aligner at the ready. Interestingly to note here the amount of caster, 7 degrees is very healthy and combined with the static values of around 1 and quarter degree negative camber indicate why this car is so good in braking and turn in due to the camber gain it generates. Now with the alignment set to a little less aggressive settings in the rear and a renewed confidence in the handling, again we try, definitely a lot better now as we can push harder however were finding the body roll is now a bit of a problem, especially in the front end and getting the rear to rotate and turn in tighter is now non-existent. Now the fun part begins, time to turn this daily driver into a handling weapon. Time to remove the OEM anti roll bars front and rear, starting with the rear bar first, this is not too bad to get to. We needed to drop the exhaust hangers first right at the very rear to gain enough clearance to worm the anti-roll bar over. In goes the new bar, 22mm in diameter with two holes of adjustment. Onto the front now, the process to remove the bar is the K frame needs to be dropped at the rear enough to worm the bar out through the back, pretty straight forward process, and the process for dropping this K frame is much the same as doing it on the Ford Focus just some bolts are a little tricky to get too around the steering rack. Now with the OEM 29mm hollow bar removed in goes the Whiteline 27mm solid bar, set to the soft setting. Alignment reset, time to take the vehicle for another run, straight away we could already notice the reduction in body roll, time to push the limits of the vehicle. First corner we could already feel the car was a lot more stable had a lot less roll, the improvement was noticeable so much so the car in OEM trim was great but now felt even more planted. Pushing the car hard now the reduction in body roll was significant and the Honda turned in really hard. We pushed the vehicle to the limits of adhesion and the understeer and front end washout was all but eliminated. The car was balanced with a gentle light rotation of the rear end off throttle. So with a big cheesy grin, mission accomplished, very pleasing difference to the balance and feel of the vehicle already improving on an awesome starting platform. Now, time to move onto the Lowering springs". Check the current Civic Type R product ranger here     

Our motto here at Whiteline is “Activate More Grip” and our philosophy is to achieve the maximum amount of usable grip on offer. There are many ways to increase the overall grip available on your car however here we will be mainly looking at how to avoid a classic mistake with MacPherson strut suspension and low ride height that can often result in loss of grip. Many cars in the tuning world run coilover suspension, for example the Whiteline Max-G coilovers, for the benefits they give such as adjustable ride height and damping, and whilst it's very satisfying buying tuning parts such as anti-roll bars or anti-lift kits, sometimes the best result can come from a simple setup change. General wisdom suggests that once you've fitted your coilovers you'll be setting the ride height at a low level to reduce the center of gravity. Reducing the center of gravity will theoretically increase the maximum cornering speed of the vehicle, however this is not always the case. And in the case of lowering springs most performance lowering spring kits that are well developed, will take into account a number of factors, one of which being the roll center location, another of course being ideal spring rate.   So what is important about roll center and ride height then? The roll center is a virtual point at which the chassis interacts with the center of gravity to create weight transfer and roll. This is particularly important with regard to MacPherson strut suspension. The reason for this is MacPherson strut suspension doesn't have an upper arm, the geometrical equivalent of the upper arm is the top mount. What this means is the typical roll center location of a well-designed MacPherson strut suspension is just above ground level. The majority of chassis engineers will seek a roll center fairly low to ground level, but slightly above it. "The problem occurs when you lower the MacPherson strut suspension too far." With a double A-Arm or double wishbone suspension, where unequal length arms are used, a chassis designer is able to engineer favourable geometry and camber change throughout the functional range of the suspension travel. Unfortunately, on the MacPherson strut suspension the engineer doesn't have this luxury and the camber change and roll center change on a MacPherson strut at very high lateral loads can often result in the loss of grip. So what does this have to do with the ride height? Well a picture speaks 1000 words, so please consult the image below to see at a glance what we're dealing with.                                   "Eventually the car will “fall over” onto the outside front wheel." As you lower your coilover equipped car, with MacPherson suspension the lower control arm will eventually start to point upwards at the outboard end, referencing ground level. What this does in reality is drop the roll center below ground. The impact this has dynamically though, is far greater than a static drawing would show. With the roll center below ground height more weight is transferred via the springs (likewise raising the roll center reduces weight transfer through the springs and increases weight transfer through sprung mass). This makes body roll more pronounced and in turn increases the leverage against the lower roll center, making the instantaneous center move well outside the vehicle causing even more weight transfer and roll. Eventually the car will “fall over” onto the outside front wheel. The tires limits of grip will now have been breached, no more weight transfer can occur. To the driver this is a very frustrating feeling, quite often on a front wheel drive car the rear inside wheel will now be airborne, and the car just understeers relentlessly. “One solution is to ensure that the strut works in a fairly defined range” There are numerous ways to address this problem but below are some of the most common fixes: a) keep the lowering to an optimal level to ensure the ball joint pivot point is not above the centerline from the inboard mounting point. b) If you are lucky enough to drive a Subaru Impreza or Mitsubishi Evo then you can you buy the appropriate Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment product. Subaru – KCA313 – Does this fit my Subaru? Mitsubishi – KCA395 – Does this fit my Evo?  c) If you are building a race car you can move the inboard mounting points upwards or fabricate a ball joint extender. d) Use lowering springs instead of coilovers where the optimal lowering range is achieved   In summary, if you want extremely lowered MacPherson strut cars then you must attend to the subsequent geometry problems or risk driving a car with so much understeer it will only be a matter of time before it meets a hedge.

  When you google the year 1991 you get some cool pop culture references. Terminator 2 was the hit at the box office, Pearl Jam and Guns N Roses were dominating, George W Bush was president of the USA and Operation Desert Storm was all over the news. And when it came to vehicles the Mitsubishi 3000 GT, Nissan 300ZX, Toyota MR-2 and Corvette ZR-1 were the latest must have vehicles with the GC Subaru in the pipeline yet to be released!   What we noticed more than anything was the term millennial or Gen Y. Now this ‘Gen Y’ is commonly associated to those born in this era and generally marked by elevated usage of and familiarity with the Internet, mobile devices, and social media, which is why they are sometimes termed digital natives.   With WHITELINE celebrating 30 years in 2021 we could not help but see ourselves as a millennial who through the use of innovation, technology and being social was able to take this underground engineering business founded in the outer suburbs of Sydney Australia to the world!   As we enter our 30th year we wish to celebrate the founders, the early adopters, our first customers, our test pilots, our forum dialogue, our project vehicles, our global travels, our social following, our successes, our failures, our innovation and most of all our enthusiasm to make a good product do great things!        

  It's official! This was a partnership years in the making. Like two high school students with a crush on each other, it is finally time Mighty Car Mods and WHITELINE announce they are ‘going steady’! These two operations from the outer burbs of Sydney (Australia) have individually conquered the far reaches of the galaxy and are now teaming up to make more golden automotive nuggets.    So, who are Mighty Car Mods?  Mighty Car Mods is an independent automotive series created by a couple of friends, Marty and Moog who started filming videos on Marty's mum's driveway in 2007. They've come a long way since then but still have an unwavering focus to show their viewers fantastic automotive projects that they can do themselves at home. The MCM boys make cars, and they make movies. In fact they do it all, including the music, editing, and automotive with some help from their friends along the way. Being completely independent, the boys don't have to answer to anyone except their own creative spirit and their focus is on quality over quantity. It doesn't matter if you have a brand new turbo charged beast, or an old banger found in your grandfathers shed. Mighty Car Mods openly embraces anyone who wants to better themselves and their cars through involvement with the MCM Community.     Why did WHITELINE choose to partner with MCM? Being both from Sydney, WHITELINE and MCM have always be fond of one another. We have always admired their approach to modifying cars and the overall positive impact they have on the car community. We felt that both Marty and Moog are exceptional role models and reflect the passion and values of the WHITELINE brand. This was more like making a friendship official, rather than a sponsorship deal.   What projects are planed with MCM? There are PLENTY of upcoming projects in the works, you should be able to see the latest project in the next week, with many more to follow over the coming months. We wish we could tell you all of them, but that would ruin the surprise. The easiest way to find out is to subscribe to their YouTube Channel so you get notified as soon as a new video is released.   Check out some of the past projects with worked on with MCM                       Mighty Car Mods Links: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/mightycarmods/ Website: https://mightycarmods.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mightycarmods